A South African Family Safari

Having eagerly read much of the information in the office on South Africa, we decided to go and see for ourselves as a family. The family being my husband and myself and our two boys aged seven and nine. With three weeks to fill and a variety of tastes to cater for, we planned to start the trip in Cape Town, then onto the Waterberg Mountains in Limpopo Province, and finally to Madikwe on the Botswana border. All three are malaria free areas.

Cape Town really does live up to all the hype. Set against the backdrop of Table Mountain, with its wild beaches and rugged coastline, it?s like no other city I?ve visited. Accommodation varies from grand five star hotels to the hundreds of bed and breakfasts all over the city. Since grand hotels and small boys don?t generally mix, we decided to go for the B&B option. So from our very comfortable B&B base in Constantia with its own pool we had ten days in which to explore.

There had been press reports before we left about the dangers of travelling in South Africa, and I did wonder whether we should go or not. However, once we arrived, we felt just as safe as we do in the UK. Driving was very straightforward and we managed with a simple tourist map. Highlights for the children were the beach at Fishhoek where they surfed for hours, Boulders Bay where they swam with penguins, and a wonderful boat trip where we barbecued and enjoyed the crayfish on board. Another hit was the Scratch Patch at the Victoria and Albert Waterfront, a small cave-like room which has a floor covered in semi-precious stones. You pay for a bag and then cram as many stones into it as you can (our youngest asked whether it was OK to fill his pockets too). For any budding geologists, it?s a must.

From an adult perspective, the Constantia wine estates with their graceful Cape Dutch architecture are really lovely. The old City dock area of Cape Town has been re-developed into the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront; it?s full of life, and a fun place to eat and shop. Cape Point Nature Reserve was something we all enjoyed; there are one or two good beaches, a few animals (the baboons caused much excitement) and Cape Point itself is spectacular.

The wineland areas of Stellenbosch and Franschhoek, about an hour from Cape Town, are stunning, with great restaurants, shops and galleries. Many of the wine estates en route are open to visitors and you can both picnic there and wander through the grounds.

From Cape Town we flew up to Johannesburg and then drove north west about four hours to the Waterberg Mountains. Our destination was Ant?s Nest, a privately run game lodge that is booked on an exclusive basis by a single group. As far as we were all concerned, it was heaven. The boys could run free, I could ride and my husband even managed to get in a bit of stalking (an unsuccessful but much talked about warthog hunt). We spent a truly blissful four days here dividing our time between riding (horses for all abilities), game drives, bush walks, swimming and generally relaxing and mucking about.

The lodge is set in an area that varies from wide open grass plains to steeply wooded hillsides. It was farmland until relatively recently, and the current owners have reintroduced a large number of antelope species as well as giraffe, rhino and zebra. Riding among these animals at sunset on New Year?s Eve is something I shall not forget in a hurry.

The wonderful thing about having the lodge to ourselves was that we could be totally flexible about what we did and when. If the children didn?t want to ride early in the morning or evening, they would be taken on their own game drive instead. They drove (with assistance) the vehicles, game viewed from the back of a motorbike, pretended they were cowboys in the bush, swam with horses and shot on the small private shooting range on land that is adjacent to Ant?s. It will certainly be a while before I find somewhere that beats this as such a complete family destination. After visits by my family and others to Ant?s, there is now a queue of small children, boys in particular, waiting to give up school and go to work there.

For our final four days, we drove four hours west to the Madikwe Game Reserve on the border with Botswana. Again it is malaria free, and we had chosen to stay first at Jaci?s Safari Lodge and then at Jaci?s Tree Lodge. Both properties (run by the owners Jaci & Jan Van Heteren) welcome families with children from any age. The safari lodge is a tented camp approached via a rope bridge over a small river. This entrance made quite a dramatic impact on the children who really had no idea what to expect from a safari. They were amazed and delighted to find that our tent was rather bigger and more luxurious than the one they use in the garden. When we moved to the tree lodge, we had an even larger cottage-style room, and they spent great deal of time in the enormous outside shower watching the vervet monkeys scurrying around the walkways.

Their response to game viewing was more surprising. My eldest son just loved everything about it and couldn?t wait for the next game drive. He wasn?t phased by elephants literally feet away or lions roaring by the bonnet of the vehicle. At the end of four days, he was able to distinguish between most of the antelope species and was even getting into the birds. The youngest was of the impression that once you?d seen one elephant what was the point of seeing more. We plugged him into a Walkman and with a constant supply of fizzy drinks he too sat very happily during the game drives. Our guide was very good-natured and even made Zulu spears for the boys.

In summary, we had a tremendous three weeks and we all want to go back for more. The huge diversity of activities, from swimming with penguins, to wine tasting, to riding in the bush made us feel that we had been away much longer than three weeks. In terms of a family holiday, there really was something for all of us and we shall all remember it for some time to come.

http://www.aardvarksafaris.com/articles-southafrica-familysafari.htm

Charlotte Opperman first visited Africa on honeymoon in Kenya, when a love of Africa (and hopefully her husband) was born. She has since visited Botswana, Namibia and the Seychelles. Charlotte has also tested a number of our trips with her husband and two sons. So far they have visited Mauritius, South Africa (twice) and Kenya, so she is a great person to talk to if wanting to travel to Africa with children. A keen horsewoman Charlotte rides and competes regularly, and has ridden in both Southern and East Africa. Her desire for comfort in unspoilt surroundings makes her a good yardstick when planning a safari for many of our clients. Her close attention to detail ensures our clients never leave home unprepared.

Tips for a Safari to Tanzania

It is confusing I think, for the first time traveller to plan a safari to Tanzania. Many subjects are covered about travel to Tanzania on the web and in an amazing selection of specialist travel books. Emphatic statements and sage advice is churned out ad nauseam in order to help plan a safari. The problem is that so much misinformation is given and how do we sift the bad from the good?

I will try to cover some basic concerns here and maybe put right some of the misinformation. A little learning is a dangerous thing and with the internet so accessible decrement has to employed. If you look at many sites for Tanzania you see how many of them seem to copy each others content. This morning I visited three sites of three independent safari companies based in Arusha, Tanzania and word for word they have the same script about camping safaris; so reading something more than once does not always make it more reliable.

Statement: The best time to come to Tanzania is in the dry season from July to October. This is a little misleading. It is the most popular time to come to Tanzania and if you come to visit the Serenegeti and Ngorongoro crater I would advise you do not come at this time as it is truly madness. There are so many tourists coming to Tanzania during these months that I would advise against travel to the northern Tanzania National Parks during these months - if it can be avoided.

November is a time of short rains and it is usually dry again from Mid December through to March. However, the rains of late are unpredictable and East Africa tends to suffer from droughts. As with anywhere the off season or low season offers a magic of its own with the bonus that safaris are offered at bargain basement prices.

Statement: June and September to plan to visit the Serengeti during this time frame would not be a good idea as this is when the wildlife has migrated to the neighbouring country Kenya. Again this statement is a little misleading. The migration follows or is dictated to by the rains. The migration follows a certain pattern however this can be disrupted if [as is often the case] the rain pattern changes. Also this sounds as if all the animals leave Tanzania to move into Kenya. Whilst it is true the migration of Wildebeest usually migrated to Kenya there is a constant crossing back and forth at this time. Some nomadic lions and predators follow the migration but other prides remain in Tanzania year round. The Seronera Valley in the central Serengeti has a high concentration of game year round.

Park Fees have changed and some web pages have not updated there pages. I will not list them here but advise you to check for your self on the official site http://www.tanzaniaparks.com/regulation.htm - any other information you might want can be found from the tourist board http://tanzaniatouristboard.com/

Statement: Roads are in bad condition and there are very few paved roads. Again this is a general statement covering a huge country which has large cities as well as wilderness areas. The road to Ngorongoro crater has been improved and can now be reached in a few hours from Arusha town. Major towns have decent roads and the roads between Arusha and Dar es Salaam and then from Dar to Iringa - Mbeya and on to Malawi and Zambis are fine. A much needed road from Arusha to Dodoma is planned and we hope work will begin soon on this project.

All statements on tipping are wrong - this statement will upset many people but I stick by this one - let me give my advise here. Remember, many people in Tanzania are poor. Many have an extended family. If you happen to over tip it is not a sin and maybe you have helped change someone's life. I have seen children die for the want of a few dollars. I don't believe in pooled tips. Whatever anyone says, ignore them, tip the person you wish to reward for good service. It is the only way to ensure the person deserving the tip gets the tip.

Remembering every time you make an extra stop on your safari and buy a curio, or a coffee [recommended by your driver perhaps] the driver will get commission. Cultural Heritage a huge curio hypermarket in Arusha will pay drives a commission for bringing tourists through the door.

I would encourage you to buy your curios from the people who make them, where possible. And although bargaining is part of the fun and is expected - always keep it good natured and don't be too hard.

Tanzania is a wonderful country; the people of Tanzania are friendliness personified. Most of all enjoy the wildlife and make new friends. It is a place that will steal your heart.

For more information on Tanzania see http://www.betheladventure.co.uk or for more comprehensive advice and comments go to http://www.tanzania-info.co.uk - responsible tourism can change lives.

Tanzania Wilderness Safari

Do you want to experience a unique Tanzania safari in the African wilderness; where there are no or very few fellow travelers? It is possible in Tanzania with many National Parks scattered in remote wilderness areas. Although, these can be difficult to access; meaning expensive charted flights or days of hard driving to access these remote parks. However, it is possible to experience the remote wilderness on the increasing popular Northern Circuit of Tanzania.

The Northern Circuit is usually thought of as the Serengeti, Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tarangire and Lake Manyara. Over the past few seasons this area of Tanzania has become very popular. So much so that many people are wondering if now these once seldom visited parks are in danger of becoming over commercialized. However, this assertion is not true; the truth of the matter is the tour operator and the tourist are returning to visit the same hot spots over and over again. This is due, in part, to laziness of the tour operator and the vast amount of misinformation to the budding tourist.

One such hot spot is the northern tip of the Tarangire ? the secret is this park is a hidden jewel. Once you get away from the touristy northern tip the rest of this park is remote and one of the best places to see wildlife during the dry season; with the added bonus that wilderness parts of the park allow game walks.

There are private game concessions such as the Western Kilimanjaro where there are few camps, and game viewing is against the back drop of the majestic Mount Kilimanjaro. The small camps found in these remote areas are best visited for a few days, to appreciate and experience the safari to the full.

The camps are very comfortable. They blend into their natural surroundings offering privacy, intimacy with nature and isolation from the madding crowd. These camps usually work together with local communities to help improve the living conditions of the local people. There very survival depends on offering a unique experience of Tanzania for the first time visitor as well as the veteran safari-est

These areas offer experiences that are so memorable they will keep you coming back to Tanzania to experience more and more of this fascinating country.

A mistake made by many is to see as much as possible in a short a time as possible. The paradox is by doing this you are likely to see, to experience less. Slowness is the art to Africa. Leave your watch behind, seriously this should be on a list of most essential items to leave at home in order that you safari is a success. Plan your safari and then lay back and enjoy the laziness of the African safari.

For further information on Wilderness Safaris see http://www.parksadventure.com using tourism to change lives. Ensure your safari is using profits to help the community.

Walking Safari Across The Ngorongoro Conservation Area

There are a number of walking safaris across the Ngorongoro Conservation Area of Northern Tanzania they vary in length from eight to twelve days. Generally your safari will begin with a day or two of game drives. The Tarangire is a nice place to have your pre-walking safari game drives. These first few days can also include morning walking safari along the border of the park it is essential you take a guide and an armed ranger with you. Bellow is an eight day itinerary

On day three the walking safari proper begins. Starting in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area and walking to the Olmoti crater takes about four hours and is a pretty walk as you advance up through the rainforest slopes to the crater rim and viewpoint.

As you walk across the Ngorongoro Conservation area the altitudes will vary considerably. So be prepared and have many layers of clothing available as the temperature may vary as dramatically as the altitude. A water proof jacket is essential.

Altitude related Illness can kill you and every year tourists die from altitude related illnesses. Higher altitudes are colder even in Africa; there is less oxygen and to walk slowly is essential especially if you climb above 1,500 to 3,000 meters above sea level. You should be breathing easily with no panting and no extreme physical excursion. Drink water regularly and eat a light diet with lots of carbohydrates. It is essential to keep warm.

The fourth day will continue across to the distant Empakai Crater. This walk covers open grassland through a dramatic natural amphitheatre created by encircling volcanoes. As you pass the local villages the Maasai will rush out of their traditional homes to greet you. A few moths ago as we passed a village the elders of the village asked for help with a woman who had just been bitten by a snake; we still had the vehicles with us were able to take this woman to a hospital. Ordinarily this woman may have died as there are no clinics or hospitals in the area.

Day four: The walk up to Empakai is steep and slow going but affords awe-inspiring views, especially from the top where the sheer sided sunken crater can be seen. This is a special day as you will camp on the Crater Rim, with Empakai on one side and Ol Donyo Lengai, the holy Masai volcano, on the other. Be warned this day has about eleven hours of walking and is a very tiring trek.

Hiking in hot or sunny weather often causes heat exhaustion the signs/symptoms are weakness/fatigue, headache, vertigo, thirst nausea/vomiting faintness high body temperature. The treatment is to lay flat in shade, remove clothing to cool the patient, soak the body with cold water, re-hydrate patient and monitor body temperature.

Heat stroke is more serious with the signs/symptoms being delirium, coma, rapid pulse, rapid breathing; skin hot and dry, body temperature above 40c [104 f]. Treat as for heat exhaustion but this condition can be fatal so seek medical assistance quickly ? evacuate if possible.

Day five will have you scramble down the sheer-sided slopes of Empakai onto the crater floor for a foot safari. Empakai Crater is a sunken volcano with a soda lake covering most of the crater floor. Flamingos nest here during the day to escape the blazing heat of the Rift Valley. A large forest on the western shore is home to antelope, buffalo, leopard and lion, with large seasonal zebra and wildebeest populations when they pass through on their migratory circuits. Today makes the hard slog of the previous day well worth the effort. This is Africa as few tourists will ever experience.

Day six and the Maasai Mountain of God, Oldonyo Lengai looms out of the sunrise as we head out early to avoid the African heat. We arrive at the escarpment, the sheer wall that looms out of the Rift Valley floor, to admire one of the finest views in Africa. Bellow lays the sweeping vistas of the great Rift Valley; a drop of 1500ft. The scattered active volcanoes, primitive rock formations, glimmering soda lakes and clustered Maasai bomas make for a dramatic and moving experience. The final six kilometers are across the tough uncompromising terrain of the valley floor is in extreme heat; it is a long six kilometers. The reward to your walk is a shaded camp that is perched above a refreshing stream, only a half-hours walk from a heavenly waterfall.

Day seven has a very early morning an optional climb of Ol Donyo Lengai (2878m), an active carbonated volcano with spiritual significance to the Maasai. It is best not to book this climb in advance as many people are just too tired to climb this mountain. The climb starts at midnight so as to see the dawn from the top ? it is also because the climb is very steep and on loose scree and there is no shade from the sun. The cost will be about US$50 per group of six people.

The end to this walking safari is a visit to Lake Natron one of the soda alkaline lakes that jewel the East African Rift, here is a display of water birds including a multitude of resident pink flamingos. There is also the opportunity, body willing after the past few days hiking, to walk up a gorge carved into the Rift Escarpment to a waterfall to wash off five days of dust.

Day eight is a return to Arusha town where most safaris in Northern Tanzania begin and end.

For a more comprehensive guide to Walking Safaris and Ngorongoro Conservation Area contact Ian through http://www.betheladventure.co.uk or Philemon http://www.aardvark-expeditions.com Using responsible tourism to change lives.