A Luxury Safari Story

It's hard to believe, as the small plane touches down at Sabi Sabi's airstrip, that we are just an easy hour's flight from Johannesburg. It's another world here - quiet, undisturbed, unhurried.

Elliot, who will be our guide for the duration of our trip, meets us off the plane. His ready smile, incredible bush knowledge and quiet confidence will be a hallmark of our visit; one of the things that make us long to go back. After a quick refreshment and cooling lemon towels we are ready to leave for our lodge.

A brief orientation brings us back down to earth. We are in the heart of the Sabi Sand Wildtuin, home to Africa's big game, Elliot explains, and there are no fences between our reserve, the Kruger National Park and Mozambique. Big game? No fences? Open vehicles? The bush is deceptively quiet for a city dweller, concealing hundreds of creatures big and small. One of the other guides tells us that just the day before a pride of lions had brought down a zebra right next to the landing strip. Our safari has begun.

A luxurious African Safari Experience
Our visit to Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve came with the choice of four lodges: Bush Lodge, Little Bush Camp, Selati Camp and Earth Lodge. We opted to spend two nights at the redesigned Bush Lodge and then two at Earth Lodge, which is a popular option available to visitors. Having been told that Bush Lodge had recently undergone a total redesign and remodelling project, I was expecting to see a new-looking lodge. However, on arrival, it was difficult to imagine that Bush Lodge hadn't been there for years, so warm and inviting is the whole atmosphere - not to mention the staff. The lodge entrance manages to be incredibly luxurious while conveying the feeling that you are visiting a close friend's home. Sabi Sabi operations director, Rod Wyndham, who together with wife Lauren run Bush Lodge, explained that the philosophy behind Bush Lodge's redesign centred around a providing a haven in the bush while reflecting the many African influences behind the design. Everywhere there are artefacts from all over the continent - a mix of colonial and ethnic - brought together by rich fabrics and textures and a design that looks out across the bush over a waterhole. After a brief introduction from Rod we were shown to our beautiful suite and invited to return for late afternoon tea followed by an evening safari. For those who have never experienced an African game lodge, it difficult to convey the luxury that exists in such close proximity to totally unspoilt wildlife. We were so taken with our suite we considered missing the evening drive, but eventually decided to give it a go - a very good decision in the end.

Afternoon tea is taken on one of two huge decks overlooking a waterhole and furnished with huge, comfortable chairs ideal for relaxing and surveying the bushveld. Soon we were heading out again - this time on evening safari with Elliot and Phios. We hadn't driven very far when we spotted two giraffes feeding in a thicket. Given their proximity to our lodge I was very grateful they weren't lions, but didn't admit this to the party we were with - all seasoned bush goers. As our drive progressed, the heat abated, the light softened and the shadows lengthened. We saw a herd of elephants, breathtakingly close; kudu, zebra, hippo and the shy nyala before Elliot's radio announced a sighting close by of 'dogs', which caused instant excitement on our Land Rover. Suddenly it dawned on me - we were about to experience what very few people ever do - African wild dogs, one of the continent's endangered and seldom seen species. En route to the sighting, Elliot explained that while wild dogs are often on Sabi Sabi property, there hadn't been a sighting for a couple of months. He reminded us to remain seated and quiet and we set off. About five minutes away we slowed down and approached the area where Sven, another guide had spotted the dog family - five adults comprising three female and two males. I was struck by how small they are, especially when Elliot explained that they are one of the most successful hunting animals in Africa with 90% success rate. They hunt in packs, efficiently and without fuss. The family seemed to be on the move and soon we were following them. They were on a trail, every so often stopping to survey their surroundings through sight, hearing and smell.

Years of habituation have made the animals at Sabi Sabi almost oblivious of the safari vehicles and the family carried on as if we were not just a few metres away. It was awesome to see these animals behaving normally in their natural habitat. Moving off road to keep with the sighting, the dogs picked up their pace on the trail of some prey until we lost them in a thicket of thorn trees. After trying unsuccessfully to locate them further on - they had disappeared as quickly and quietly as they had appeared - Elliot suggested we stop for sundowners. While we encountered the most incredible wildlife during our stay, including lions hunting, two different leopards, hippo, buffalo and even a snake, the wild dog sighting was the highlight of our game viewing. Sundowners are served in the open bush, a refreshing break before resuming the safari in darkness. Returning to Bush Lodge we forewent the chance to freshen up for dinner in favour of adjourning to the welcoming bar to swap stories with other guests and compare notes on our experiences.

A four-course boma dinner, complete with fresh venison and an array of other dishes, was accompanied by a fine wine from an impressive collection. An early night was called for as morning wake up call was just a few hours away.

Our days at Bush Lodge followed in the same gentle rhythm, two daily safaris, delicious food and wonderful staff, mainly from the local Shangaan communities of Huntingdon, Justicia and Lilydale.

On our third day we transferred to Earth Lodge. The arrival is totally unexpected as the lodge is all but invisible from a distance, being sculpted into the earth and having been recreated to blend seamlessly with the surrounding bush. It was the first lodge of its genre to break with the colonial tradition and the effect is breathtaking. It has clean lines that look out over unspoiled bush, an unadorned cement and pigment finish and uses influences from nature in its every aspect: buck horns as legs for chairs, uprooted trees carved into elaborate furniture pieces, natural skylights, anthill roofs for the suites. Our suite is the most luxurious we have ever stayed in. Dominated by a huge carved wooden bed, it opens up to a private splash pool and the bush. An enormous bathroom with a stone bath has uninterrupted views of the bushveld, and there are indoor and outdoor showers. I indulged in an outdoor shower for the first time although they are also a feature at Bush Lodge. The main lodge has an indoor / outdoor dining area, reading lounge, Zen garden, Camelot spa and a 6000-bottle subterranean wine cellar where we enjoyed unique Earth Lodge cuisine for our last dinner at the reserve.

All too soon the visit was over and we were driving to the airstrip where we had arrived. En route, we saw and heard an African fish eagle, surely one of the most evocative sounds in the wild - and a fitting end to a wonderful experience.

This travel article was written by a guest at "Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve in South Africa.